Monday, July 02, 2007
Changes
As I returned to see how my home town of Camberley has changed, I found that it had changed very little. The same shops still remain empty and disused as they were two years ago. The Litten Tree pub, which want bust after about 2 years still remains shut with the same half full wine glasses left on the tables.
There have been many essential changes. We have a new prime minister, Gordon Brown. Smoking is now officially banned in all public places. No Smoking signs are now in place in every single shop.
The first two weeks back in the UK have been really depressing with endless amuounts of rain, mass flooding and an increase in the threat of terror. Settling back into my native land will be a challenge in itself.
Sunday, June 17, 2007
Final Reflections
Ten Best things about Bratislava and Slovakia
1. The Beer (except for Stein which is probably the worst I've ever tasted)
2. The hospitality of the people: Slovaks tend to be quite generous and welcoming once you break the ice with them. I also found them very trustworthy.
3. The surrounding countryside and hills.
4. The Tatra Mountains and Slovak Paradise
5. Slivovice (a very strong drink)
6. Castle Ruins on rocky hills.
7. Old Traditions such as folklore dancing and arts.
8. Fine Caves (apart from the expensive photography pass. 300sk in dobsinska and 200sk in jaskyna driny)
9. Wildlife and Nature. Slovakia's sparsely populated country enables certain species to flourish.
10. The women. Slavic women are generally beautiful, tall and slim. (although most of the decent ones get married by the time they are 25!! Bugger!!)
Ten worst things about Slovakia
1. Rip-off taxis, banks, go-go bars and cave prices and other things.
2. Brezhnev-era architecture. Soviet Style panelled tower blocks still dominate the landscape of larger towns and cities.
3. Low Wages: The average monthly wage here is still 25,000sk (about 100 GBP a week)
4. The corrupt police force. The police will try and get black money whenever they can. A friend of mine got fined 2000sk for having a tatty passport
5. Greasy food: Slovak food is nice but usually meaty and fatty. It is a problem for veggies as some dishes are advertised as meat free, but have bits of cut meat at the bottom.
6. Robert Fico (the prime minister and dear leader who everyone loves!!)
7. Stroppy Restaurant Services where waiters have manners of goats.
8. Badly scrawled Graffiti
9. English pigs causing havoc and harassing women.
10. Local Drunks drinking Stein in Hostinec bars.
I would like to pay a special thanks to those who have supported me and looked after me in this little big country. God bless.
Saturday, June 16, 2007
The Most Hideous Buildings II
Hotel Spirit
The Hotel Spirit is a new age hotel in Bratislava sticks out like a sore thumb. However some people tend to love this ghastly mess. While this place might look OK in Barcelona, this is a horrible eyesore in Bratislava.
Petrinka bus station and Underpass.
This bus station is situated in a place called Lamac. Of course, it was built at a time when aesthetics were not an issue. Although this bus station is falling apart, it is very unlikely that thisbuilding will be modernised in the next ten years. There is also a very tasteful hostinec that sells Stein nearby at 22sk for a 0,5l.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Some more castles!! nech sapache!!
Tematin is situated about 20km from the spa town of Piestany. The hike to this castle takes about 2.5 - 3 hours from a small town called Luba. To get to the castle, follow a red sandwich path. The nature on the way is pretty impressive. It is apparently about 600 metres above sea level and the views are impressive
Pajstun Castle
Not much to say about this one apart from the fact that it is situated near a place called Borinka - about 30 minute bus ride from Bratislava and that it is a haven for rockclimbers.
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Wilsonic Festival
As I wrote my last blog in an empty bookstore/cafe, I decided that no one was around and the weather was too good to be wasted in a cafe, so I made my way to the Wilsonic Festival close to the Danube, Aupark and the Messalina Go-Go Bar. At 500sk (10GBP), the tickets were a bargain. It was also a small but very international event with bands from the UK, Poland, Estonia and Austria.
One of the bands I checked out a Polish band called Pink Freud, whose music consisted of a hectic mixture of jazz fusion, Ozric Tentacles and Spiritualized. However, after 40 minutes of chaotic saxophones and thudding basslines, the novelty wore off.
The second to last band was a British band called Pssap. Musically, they were very creative and visual. Their music was comparable with the band Moloko. Nonetheless, they failed to impress me with their stupid ideas of throwing toy cats and ducks into the crowd. Their jokes were also pretty hideous and childish. A fellow Slovak asked me if this was a good example of good English dry humour. I said this is a very bad example. Their jokes are pathetic. Something you would expect from a sixth-form girl's band.
For me, the highlight of the evening was an Austrian band called Mimu. They were a nice artistic and chilled out act and also very tasteful, despite the projected war images.
Although I enjoyed the festival in the city, the atmosphere is uncomparable with the UK festivals. There were few people smoking marijuana and too many people taking the event too seriously.
Saturday, June 09, 2007
Summer's in the City
The first band was HEX, which sounded like Slovakia's answer to the Cure. The second band was a typical central European ska-reggae band, which was nothing special. My spirits were only lifted when they played the Jimmy Cliff classic You Can Get it if You Really Want. The headlining act were dinosaur Czech legends, Buty, who have strummed their way from the Glory Days of the dear Communist Leaders to the present. They were a comical Prog Rock band - a cross between Zappa and Jethro Tull.
This weekend, there is a festival called WILSONiC on the other side of the danube, near Petrzalka. It will run all night and has DJs from all over the world. I'm off to check out a band called Pink Freud - a Polish band that is apparently not a Pink Floyd tribute band.
Friday, June 01, 2007
A walk in the woods.
However, public transport in this area is almost nonexistent, so I ended up having to try and thumb my way out of the park back to Spisska Nova Ves, the closest large settlement to Slovak Paradise. Although I have had no problems with hitching safely around Slovakia, this was easier said than done. Cars were very infrequent, so I ended up having to take a follow a 6km red sandwich path to a small settlement near Spisske Nova Ves.
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Cool it Down
Sunday, May 06, 2007
Lost in Translation
I kept on repeating 'Vyhon,' trying to get the pronunciation right. I was apparently saying something extremely rude, which would normally be heard in a Go Go Bar, not a Chinese restaurant. I checked out the meaning of the word, and I apparently asked the waitress for a 'w***'
The woman in the Chinese restaurant made no comments about my mispronunciation of this word. Instead, she patiently looked at me and asked me to point at what I wanted/
Monday, April 30, 2007
Eastern Paradise: The HighTatras and Slovensky Raj
On Saturday, we took a hike into the snow-capped High-Tatra mountains. Although the temperature in this region is over +15, there is still at least 3ft of snow in some areas. Before the snow completely disappears, locals are making the most of the ski season before it finally ends at the beginning of May. Walking in the Tatras is still pretty hazardous as you have to watch out for weak snow and hidden holes. I had to dig myself out of snow when I fell 3ft into some hole.
Slovensky Raj is another national park 20km south-east of Poprad. It is probably one of the most beautiful places in the country and has some impressive gorge walks and waterfalls. The gorge walks are treacherous as it consists of narrow ladders that can get slippery. To get through the gorge, one has to tread on narrow, slippery wet plates about 20ft above the bottom of the gorge. Dalibor, my companion managed to do this single-handedly with a 1-year-old baby strapped to him in an old bedsheet.
Gypsies, Tramps and Thieves
The most marginalised ethnic minority in Slovakia is the Roma. Roma people are frowned upon by even some of the most liberal of Slovaks. Many complain that Roma people are lazy, do not want to work and are thieves. Some also complain that no matter what people do to help them, they won't help themselves and will continue to steal and live in squalor. A large number of Slovaks also believe that the authorities have tried to do everything to help the Roma people to get into education and work.
Farmers have even tried to give the Roma vegetables so that they don't steal from their land. Yet, the attempt to stop them stealing potatoes from farmland has failed. Many Roma still continue to steal from lands, despite such handouts.
The Roma have a poor literacy rate, as many are excluded from state schools. According to statistics, only around 400 Roma out of a population of around 253,000 have made it into university.
Eastern Slovakia has the highest concentration of Roma settlements in the country.
The settlement in the first picture is in a village called Letanovce, close to Slovensky Raj National Park. The settlement consists of shack-like houses and is surrounded by heaps of rubbish. We managed to walk through the settlement without getting any hassle. A group of 5 kids just came and hassled us for sweets and one tried to go for my pockets. When I yelled 'bugger off' they seemed to understand.
This settlement is due to be demolished by local authorities who want to protect the nearby national park and want to move the Roma to better housing. However, many locals object to the Roma being resettled into new housing as the locals feel that Roma always get something for nothing at the expense of the taxpayer.
That said, there are a few succes stories of the Roma. My accompaniment told me how he know of the first ever Roma doctor who had to get past many levels of prejudice and discrimination. Furthermore, more Roma people are setting up legitimate businesses around the country, despite the obstacles they have to deal with from their peers and society.
http://www.slovakia.org/society-roma.htm
Thursday, April 26, 2007
Goodbye ECB and The Driest April Ever??
I will miss them dearly. If any ECB students are reading this, I would like to say that you are the best looking, most individualistic, the most demanding and most intelligent students I have ever taught. I will particularly miss my 'teacher's pet' who always made me tea, always turned up regularly and stayed after the lesson to talk to me. Sadly, that person is married.
The temperature has topped 25C, which must be a record for this region. It has put Spain and Britain in the shade. This is also worrying as it is the driest April I can remember. All month, we have had no more than 2 inches of rain. That said, the weather must be good for Slovakia's already fast growing economy. People are filling the beer patios, eating cheap ice cream and swilling gallons of Zlaty Bazant, Slovakia's finest beer.
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
St. George's Weekend
As most Britons know, or should know, yesterday (April 23rd) was St. George's Day. However, in England many still don't know who St.George was or when St.George's day is. In Slovakia, April 23rd is the name day of Jur (pron. yoor) , which is the equivalent of George. On name days, people of such names are given presents and cards by family and friends.
In Svaty Jur (Saint George) a festival was on the weekend to celebrate this day. For one weekend, this sleepy village was turned into a lively town with craft stalls and cheesy 'karaoke' singers doing renditions of songs such as Barbra Streisand's 'Woman in Love' and Allanah Miles' 'Black Velvet' to a few hundred individuals.
Friday, April 13, 2007
I like Birds
A couple of my favourite bird shots from Central Europe. The first three are pictures of the Stork - a common bird in Central Europe. Storks can be seen at the top of telegraph poles in rural areas. According to Polish folklore, the stork is meant to bring one good luck.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stork
Monday, April 09, 2007
Weekend break in Budapest
I have just got back from a weekend break Budapest. Although I have been here before, I thought that it would make a nice change of scene from Bratislava and would give me a chance to show my friends the beauty of the city.
On a previous post, I complained about the service in restaurants in Slovakia. However, in comparison to Hungarian service, they seem quite polite. Since I my arrival, I have many rude people who think they only owe themselves and don't seem to appreciate tourists in their city. To add to things, I've also had to deal with a hysterical Slovak companion who cannot be named for legal reasons.
She hates everything about Hungary and Hungarian people. She believes that they are rude, drably dressed and arrogant. What's more she feels that they are still hungover from the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
While I have complained about the service in Slovak restaurants, I have found that the service in many Budapest restaurants ten times as worse. We walked into one place and the woman threw the menu at us. She went mad when my friend politely asked what the price was for a small beer. The stroppy waitress just simply opened the menu and agressively pointed at the drinks. She went even more bizzerk when one of my friends politely asked after 30 minutes where our food was. She simply shouted 'Why???'
Our funniest moment has to be in an empty Chinese bistro. As we patiently waited to get served, the waiter continued to talk on his mobile phone for 15 minutes. After that time, we were in stitches, as it seemed that he was totally oblivious to the fact that we were there and wanted some food.
However, it was doom and gloom. Budapest is probably one of the most outstanding cities in Europe. The architecture is incredibly beautiful and there is so much to do here. Like elsewhere, there are good and bad people. Despite the extremely appalling service in some places, some Hungarians were actually hospitable and helpful. Members of the public are often willing to help out tourists who are lost and will sometimes translate.
I was so relieved to get back to Bratislava on Monday. The first thing I did was order a pizza from my local pizzeria. The waitress greeted me with a 'Dobry Vecor' (good eveveing) and a 'nech sapachi.' (for you.) She was so hospitable, welcoming and polite. It's good to be back.
Friday, April 06, 2007
raging universe and notes from Leah
For a rival blog on Bratislava and other places, check out
http://notesfromleah.blogspot.com/
For a nice mish-mash of other stuff, check out
raging universe
Easter time
Easter time in Slovakia, on the other hand, is taken very seriously. The majority of Slovaks are devout Catholics who believe that Easter is more important than Christmas. For some, fasting up to Easter Sunday is part of the ritual. This is also the time where most churches are full.
It is also a time when Slovak women get cold water poured on them and get beaten with twigs. This is a pagan ritual which is meant to bring people good luck.
Sunday, April 01, 2007
Springtime in the air
Spiš Castle
I am not normally a fan of castles. Castles are often overpriced and have very dull displays of old coins, heraldry and grumpy people running them. Many castles are also very similar to one another, especially in the Czech and Slovak Republics.
The ruins of Spiš Castle (pron. Spish) in eastern Slovakia, however, is one of the few exceptions. It is one of Slovakia's most well-known landmarks and has tremendous views of the town of Spisske Podhradie from the top.
The castle is situated in the town of Spisske Podhradie, and is a UNESCO landmark. Getting there is easy as it is on the road from Spisske Nova Ves to Poprad.
Friday, March 23, 2007
In 'loving' memory of a fascist
He was a supporter of Hitler and ordered the deportation of 700,000 Slovak Jews to Germany in March 1942. To mark the anniversary, 150 young neo-Nazis and older-generation Slovaks gathered to his grave. According to a recent survey, 16% of Slovaks believed that he did a lot for Slovakia. Yet over 40% of Slovaks condemned Tiso's support for Hitler and the fact that he declared war on Britain and America.
Monday, March 19, 2007
Kosice: Full of Eastern Promise
One of the nicest things about Kosice is that it is so compact that you don't need to take any buses or trams anywhere. Just hop off the train and the old town is 5 minutes away. What's more, it's old town is a lot better kept than Bratislava. There is less graffiti than in Bratislava and its buildings in the old town are well-preserved.
By train, it takes about 6 hours to get there. I travelled on the painfully uncomfortable, dirty and slow night train from Bratislava, which cost me about 600sk.
Sunday, March 11, 2007
Rip-off merchant bankers
The last couple of months have seen many newspaper reports about how British banks have been overcharging its customers with hefty overdraft fees. Banks have been charging customers £30 a time every time they go over their overdraft limits. According to consumer watchdogs, British banks have been acting illegally. As a result, people have been claiming back such charges.
However, there is one thing to be said about British banks: They don't charge people for having money in the bank, providing they are in credit. In Slovakia and the Czech Republic, however, the banks sting you for every penny, whether you are in credit or in debt. They charge 100sk for opening an accuont. You get charged extortionate amounts for withdrawing money from their machines. If you withdraw money from a cashpoint machine that isn't from the bank you belong, you get charged even more.
The Tatra Bank in particular are ruthless and crafty with their customers, despite their excellent reputation as an award winning bank. I recently learned about how the bank often adds extra money to people's accounts. This 'extra' money into people's accounts isn't actually theirs. It is a loan that the bank puts into people's accounts, even when they don't ask for it. This is so that they can sting the customers for interest on such loans. This recently happened to me when I found I had 7,000sk more than I actually should.
Despite such charges, most Slovaks seem to grin and bear it and say this is the way it is. When I mentioned to my boss about how such charges may be illegal, she said that the top banks would never act illegally.
Do's and Don'ts.
- DO NOT take out small amounts of money at a time. Instead, take out large sums in one go. This is because they will charge you every time they use the machines.
- DO NOT go for the internet banking option unless you really have to. The fee is very pricey
- DO NOT choose weekly or monthly bank statements. Go for quarterly statements, as they sting you for statements.
Slovakia's Healthcare
My migraine is still killing me, despite having taken strong migraine tablets, the doctor prescribed to me.
I decided to pay a second visit to the village doctor, as my migraine was not getting any better. My boss quickly wrote out a Slovak translation of my problem as the doctor could not speak any English whatsoever. He gave me a quick assessment and summoned me to Bratislava's top neurology department in a 1930s hospital in Americke Namesti, close to the centre .
The hospital waiting room was drab, grey and needed a lick of paint. The stretchers and wheelchairs seemed to date from the 1930s. As the place needed modernising, I wondered what the system was going to be like.
I was fortunate that I only had to wait 30 minutes for an English speaking neurologist to see me. She took my blood pressure and gave me a headscan. Fortunately, the headscan was negative as they could find no blood clot or tumour. She also gave me an x ray on my spine and injected some strong painkiller into my arm. On the whole, I was very impressed with how quickly they dealt with the problem and their good use of English. The neurologist also told me how people in the UK would have to wait for around 6 weeks to see a neurologist as the waiting list his huge.
The next day, I received a phone call from a woman in the village. She told me how concerned she was about my illness. I asked how she knew about this. She said that the village doctor told her everything. Doctors are not supposed to reveal anything, but this doctor couldn't resist bragging about how he dealt with an English patient. Although Slovaks tend to be reserved to foreigners, they apparently like to gossip and find out about other peoples' business.
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Being ill in bratislava
Fortunately, I didn't have to wait too long. The doctor did a very quick diagnosis of my migraine and ordered me some new pills called IBALGIN that would supposedly sort my migraine out straight away. He wrote out the prescrition and I went off to the Lekaren (Chemist) to get it. I tried 3 different chemists and they said they had never heard of this pill. I eventually found one chemist and they told me they would get it for me the next day.
Unfortunately, this wonder drug did very little for me as my migraines continue to wake me up in the middle of the night and interrupt my daily life.
Sunday, February 11, 2007
Brno by train
Saturday, February 10, 2007
Wherever you are, you are with the BBC. Or so I thought
ON 93.8FM, the BBC's station had been replaced by Lumen, a Slovak talk station. I later found out that the reason that the reliable BBC world Service was taken off the air was because the govwernment decided that all radio stations need to be understood by the entire Slovak population. This legislation means that stations can only broadcast in Czech or Slovak. It's a shame when the socialist government wants to encourage more people to learn other languages. It is also a shame for those who tuned in especially for the station's Learning English programme.
Although programmes on this station are often dull, it provides a service and also enbales me to sleep at night. Since it was taken off the air, my insomnia has gradually got worse.
The BBC World Service is still available on TV, and of course online. I am now dependent on 5-minute podcasts of the latest news.
Wednesday, February 07, 2007
Goodbye to The Kyjev (1973-2007): The end of an Era (or error)
The Kyjev: So beautiful they had to cover it up with advertising
I heard some very sad news last night. The Hotel Kyjev, one of Bratislava's finest landmarks is to be demolished in April to make way for yet another glass building shopping and hotel complex. Fans of Bratislava's modernist architecture are said to be devastated to see such an important landmark go. In its prime, this was a five-star hotel where many VIPs stayed. However, due to lack of funds and interest in the place, the hotel has not been modernised since the 1980s.When I walked into the lobby bar to use the wi fi facility, a prostitute sat next to me and gave me a light for a cigarette. I thought nothing of it, until she tried to kiss me. I instantly backed off. The woman then had the cheek to order a coke and get me to pay for it. When the bar man insisted that I should pay 40sk, I refused. She then asked if I wanted a solo. I declined and told her that I was married. She then asked me if I spoke German and started swearing at me, calling me AN ARSCHLOCH.
Enjoy it while you can. Enjoy the sleazy lobby bar with scraggy-looking prostitutes lurking around the reception, waiting to pray on desperate westerners who don't know any better.
Enjoy the super-high prices for very basic rooms with poor-quality bathrooms and radios that don't work. If you are interested in staying, they are accepting reservations until March.
The Tesco store is also likely to topple with the Kyjev, which is a blessing.
Sunday, February 04, 2007
Life in a Soviet Tower block
I'm living on the 4th floor of a small panelled tower block. The place itself is very Soviet Union on the inside and outside. This includes most of the appliances inside. More pics later.
Bratislava's urban decay
Many people have seen postcard images of Bratislava's beautiful, baroque old town. However, the old town is just a small part of the city. The majority of Bratislava's skyline is dominated by tower blocks. There are many buildings that are in decay such as this almost disused train station, Predmestie. Although Predmestie Station is still used, it is almost in a state of disrepair. The ticket office is shut, the ticket machines are broken and the cafe hasn't been used since the collapse of communism in 1989. Thanks to lack of sufficient funds, Slovakia's rail network is falling apart. Many trains are old, noisy, slow. and are often daubed in graffiti like the one above. They also have brakes that squeak so loudly, you can hear them from half a mile away. The interiors of such trains are grubby and have toilets which are almost holes in the train.