Being ill in bratislava

I've had a hectic week this week. I've had a really nasty migraine for the last week or so. Went to the doctor's for the first time in Svaty Jur. Although I have healthcare insurance, I have to fork out 200sk if I want to make an appointment. Otherwise I just have to sit with a load of other people and wait to be called.
Fortunately, I didn't have to wait too long. The doctor did a very quick diagnosis of my migraine and ordered me some new pills called IBALGIN that would supposedly sort my migraine out straight away. He wrote out the prescrition and I went off to the Lekaren (Chemist) to get it. I tried 3 different chemists and they said they had never heard of this pill. I eventually found one chemist and they told me they would get it for me the next day.
Unfortunately, this wonder drug did very little for me as my migraines continue to wake me up in the middle of the night and interrupt my daily life.

Brno by train

Brno is Czech Republic's second largest city. It takes about 90 minutes by train from Bratislava and is well worth a visit. Brno is a lot quieter and more laid-back than Prague, but still has enough stuff to do and see in the daytime and a good variety of bars for the evening. Furthermore, it's cleaner than Bratislava as there is less graffiti and fewer winos on the streets. This city is also pretty vibrant and has many Herna bars and seedy joints. Just ask a taxi driver.

You should be warned about buying a return ticket to Brno. I thought that I could get on any train back to Bratislava. This was not the case. I planned on returning to Bratislava on the 18.21 train. Naturally, I got sidetracked in Brno's streets and missed it by 1 minute. I ended up taking a supertrain, which was ten times more modern an comfortable than the usual graffiti-daubed, squeaking train. Yet I didn't expect to be stung for a further 200sk. This train was a special train for reservations only.

Wherever you are, you are with the BBC. Or so I thought

When I arrived home after a hard day's teaching on 23rd January, I tried to tune into the BBC world Service only to find that hid had been taken off the air. I tried so hard to find it, thinking that the frequency may have moved. It was nowhere to be heard.
ON 93.8FM, the BBC's station had been replaced by Lumen, a Slovak talk station. I later found out that the reason that the reliable BBC world Service was taken off the air was because the govwernment decided that all radio stations need to be understood by the entire Slovak population. This legislation means that stations can only broadcast in Czech or Slovak. It's a shame when the socialist government wants to encourage more people to learn other languages. It is also a shame for those who tuned in especially for the station's Learning English programme.
Although programmes on this station are often dull, it provides a service and also enbales me to sleep at night. Since it was taken off the air, my insomnia has gradually got worse.

The BBC World Service is still available on TV, and of course online. I am now dependent on 5-minute podcasts of the latest news.

Goodbye to The Kyjev (1973-2007): The end of an Era (or error)

The Kyjev: So beautiful they had to cover it up with advertising

I heard some very sad news last night. The Hotel Kyjev, one of Bratislava's finest landmarks is to be demolished in April to make way for yet another glass building shopping and hotel complex. Fans of Bratislava's modernist architecture are said to be devastated to see such an important landmark go. In its prime, this was a five-star hotel where many VIPs stayed. However, due to lack of funds and interest in the place, the hotel has not been modernised since the 1980s.
When I walked into the lobby bar to use the wi fi facility, a prostitute sat next to me and gave me a light for a cigarette. I thought nothing of it, until she tried to kiss me. I instantly backed off. The woman then had the cheek to order a coke and get me to pay for it. When the bar man insisted that I should pay 40sk, I refused. She then asked if I wanted a solo. I declined and told her that I was married. She then asked me if I spoke German and started swearing at me, calling me AN ARSCHLOCH.

Enjoy it while you can. Enjoy the sleazy lobby bar with scraggy-looking prostitutes lurking around the reception, waiting to pray on desperate westerners who don't know any better.
Enjoy the super-high prices for very basic rooms with poor-quality bathrooms and radios that don't work. If you are interested in staying, they are accepting reservations until March.
The Tesco store is also likely to topple with the Kyjev, which is a blessing.

Life in a Soviet Tower block

I've moved out of Svaty Jur... I'm now living in a region called Kramare - about 8 minutes by bus to the old town. The area itself is relatively quiet and is close to Bratislava's highest point, Koliba.
I'm living on the 4th floor of a small panelled tower block. The place itself is very Soviet Union on the inside and outside. This includes most of the appliances inside. More pics later.

Bratislava's urban decay

Many people have seen postcard images of Bratislava's beautiful, baroque old town. However, the old town is just a small part of the city. The majority of Bratislava's skyline is dominated by tower blocks. There are many buildings that are in decay such as this almost disused train station, Predmestie. Although Predmestie Station is still used, it is almost in a state of disrepair. The ticket office is shut, the ticket machines are broken and the cafe hasn't been used since the collapse of communism in 1989. Thanks to lack of sufficient funds, Slovakia's rail network is falling apart. Many trains are old, noisy, slow. and are often daubed in graffiti like the one above. They also have brakes that squeak so loudly, you can hear them from half a mile away. The interiors of such trains are grubby and have toilets which are almost holes in the train.

It seems that Predmestie station hasn't been renovated since the 1970s. Sadly, the place has become a magnet for junkies, winos and graffiti artists. Avoid this place at all costs!!

More pubs and stuff

One of the best hangouts in town is Nu Spirit on Medena Street, not far from Tesco. Jazzy music and a nice vibrant atmosphere. The Free WiFi service makes up for the expensive beer @ 35sk for 0,3 litres.

Cachtice: The home of Elizabeth Bathory

Cachtice is a small town in the lesser Carpathian mountains. As a town, it is a typical Slovak town with baroque architecture. It has an old church, a churchyard and a restaurant. However, its beautiful castle ruins are world-famous for being the home of being the former home of Elizabeth Bathory (1560-1614) who became known as the female dracula or the bloody countess. According to legend, Bathory drained the blood of her victims and bathed in it.
To get there from the village, you have to take a 30-minute hike up the hill. The place is free of charge, and the views are tremendous. On the downside, there is no information in English, so you will have to rely on kind Slovaks to translate for you. Alternatively, check out the link.
http://www.spectacularslovakia.sk/ss2002/cachtice_ascii.html


It takes approximately 90 minutes to get to Nove Mesto Vahom from Bratislava and takes a further 5 minutes by another train. Be warned!! Getting back can be a problem on Sundays, especially as trains are infrequent
More later plus pics

House hunting, Bratislava style.

'Sick of trees, take me to the city. Train coming round the bend.' Lou Reed

When I arrived back in town, my landlady gave me a badly written piece of paper on how she has found a buyer for her new place.
This means that I have to find somewhere new to live by the end of the month. It also gives me an opportunity to move closer to the city.
The first place I visited was about 11,000 sk a month - way too expensive for someone on Slovak wages. However, the location was in an area called Bajkalska, a convenient junction in the city. When I visited the place, I couldn't believe that the woman told me that she would be taking the TV, washing machine and sofa with her.
The second place, close to the city centre in a region called Kramare seemed promising with nice housemates, but there was no bed.
I finally looked at a place near my favourite restaurant in Ursynyho, close to Racianske Myto. At 6,600sk par month, this was place seemed promising, but the person who I would have to share with gave me the creeps. I would also have to see this person every single day. This place is definitely out of the question.

One of the most popular sites for renting is a site called reality.sk. Unfortunately, most of these places seem far too expensive for my budget. A one-bedroom flat in Petrzalka costs around 9,000 sk. Yet there are many hidden costs. There is not only a deposit of 9,000sk, but there is a one-off payment of 9,000sk that you will never see again. These letting agents will also try and charge more for foreigners.
Anyway, will keep you all posted on my whereabouts soon.

HRH Prince of Wales award for fine modern architecture

Bratislava has some amazing architectural gems from the 'glory' years of the Brezhnev era. On a recent visit, HRH Prince of Wales, a big fan of Brezhnevian architecture, picked some of his favourite pieces of 'classic' design from the 1970s. The odd triangular building is home to a Bratislava radio station. The other is my favourite tower block with a distinctive cylinder design
More pics soon.

The warmest January.....ever???

It is the beginning of January, and there is no snow in sight. Infact, the weather is so mild that it feels like Spring. The birds are already singing and flowers are beginning to bloom. Some people are even wearing T shirts. The midday temperature is currently +13C - the warmest January in Slovakia for over 100 years.
Many Slovaks are unhappy about the warm winter as skiing is one of the most popular passtimes for them. There is no snow anywhere, even on the highest peaks of the Tatras!!!

'The Terrorist.'

After all the speculation of the 'muslim terrorist' on EZY flight 5443, there was no terrorist. The person who threatened the hostess turned out to be a drunken Hungarian who probably had a few mental health issues.

Nightmare on flight 5443

This morning I flew to Budapest from Gatwick on EZY flight 5443. It was a flight that I'll never forget.

The plane was delayed for an hour, thanks to an essential change of a front tyre. This was chaotic enough as there were so many restless people determined to get home after the Christmas holidays.

The actual flight itself was uneventful. I did the usual stuff people do on planes - talk to the person next to me, read and sleep.

We arrived in Budapest 30 minutes late, which was expected due to the delay. However, the plane never made it to the terminal as it stood to a complete standstill in the middle of the runway. We all sat there wondering when we were going to disembark. 30 minutes later, the person next to me asked the air hostess in orange, 'can you please tell me what's going on?' The hostess said 'I'm sorry, but I can't.' Two minutes later, the captain announced there is a Muslim terrorist on board. It was believed that the 'terrorist' said to a stewardess as she was serving tepid tea and overpriced Pringles, 'Watch out. I'm a Muslim Terrorist.'

The captain asked us to remain seated with our seatbelts fastened. I looked outside to find the plane was surrounded by the Hungarian army and armed police. About 20 armed policemen came on the plane and dragged some light-skinned, wired eyed looking person off the plane. As you would expect, there was a massive round of applause.
10 minutes later, we were all allowed off the plane. We then had to wait another hour for our baggage, as they had to sniff out any bombs.

I am still in one piece after my brush with terror, despite the fact I'm a little shocked.

Yet everything is is still a total mystery. Who was the guy? Was he a real terrorist or just some nut job acting out alone? Was he just a Schizophrenic? I tried to find out stuff on BBC, but found nothing. I was interviewed by RTL Hungary TV and told them my piece. However, I may never know about this mystery situation.

Life in Britain at Christmas

It's just as well I arrived back in the UK on the 16th. Travelling has been total mayhem, thanks to a week of heavy fog. British Airways cancelled all domestic flights for three days leaving a massive backlog of people who had to camp in the airport overnight.

Still, it's nice to be back in Britain to see friends and to pull some Xmas crackers like the one above. More later

Stroppy Christmas and a grumpy new year

I'm back in Britain for three weeks, so I would like to wish you all a merry xmas. Don't forget that it's meant to be the season to be jolly!!!

More travel classes

This is the last week I have to run intensive travel classes for Slovaks. The group I have this week is relatively small in comparison to the other classes. They are also have a much lower level of English in comparison to the other groups, which makes things difficult when you have prepared for higher levels. Most of our original material was aimed at intermediate to upper-intermdiate levels.

As a result, I have had to go back to basics with the group and take things slowly with them.

That said, this small group are a lovely bunch of people who are motivated, fun-loving and enthusiastic. Having a smaller class in compared with the other groups also makes things easier.

Stroppy restaurant services

Bratislava has many restaurants that offer cheap and substantial food. For about 2GBP, one can get a half-decent pizza with at least 2 toppings. In the old town, prices are slightly more expensive. However, the service in many places is still very Soviet Union as they rarely smile or say thank you never mind the Slovak phrase 'Dobrou Chut' meaning 'Have a good meal.' Instead, a grumpy but sexy looking woman will throw a menu at you and will assume that you know what you want straight away. She will then say 'Ano?' (meaning yes). It doesn't matter whether you speak Slovak or not. The waiters in some places will treat you equally - like s***. Some don't appreciate the fact you are a foreigner trying to speak their language - they'll still be grumpy with you.
After ordering, the waiter/waitress will come round again and slam a beer on your
table and just walk away. 10 minutes later, she will give you your main course and slam the plate on your table. If you're lucky, the waiter might mumble 'enjoy.'
Because of the sloppy, stroppy service, I rarely leave a tip. I sometimes pay with lots of loose change, which annoys them even more.
That said, there are some places where you can get service with a smile. Slang bar in the old town is one place where you get even more than a smile, especially from the gay waiter. Even the people working for a pittance in McDonald's can be more polite than some places.

Helpful Slovaks and the cheapest haircut ever. ??

Despite some cultural annoyances, many, especially young Slovaks are very helpful. They are aware of how some Slovak businesses and companies like to find ways of ripping off expats. When doing business in Slovakia, it is worth asking a Slovak. I asked my beautiful friend Barborka where the best place was to get a hair cut in Pezinok. She kindly took me to a place that cut my hair for 50p. It turned out to be a hairdressing school which was cheap and cheerful. They were so happy to give an Englishman a haircut. Getting a haircut when you don't know the language can be difficult, so it is handy when you have a lovely lady like Barborka to translate everything from short back and sides and an inch off the top into Slovak.

Cultural Annoyances

Every place has cultural annoyances that frustrate outsiders. Annoyances in different countries range from inefficient services to stupid, pointless rules.

Bratislava has more then its fair share of cultural annoyances. Like most cities, it has some excellent, stylish bars. However, getting a drink in your favourite bar on a Friday night can be sometimes difficult. You walk into your favourite bar such as Nu Spirit and see five empty tables that yo cannot sit in as they are reserved for other people. The sign says 'Reserve od. (from) 20.00'. Althoughthe time is 22.00 and no one has arrived, you still cannot sit there. This can be such a pain especially as you and your friends are confined to a tight corner in the bar or restaurant.

Another annoyance is extra baggage at Bratislava airport. Bratislava Airport charges way above the standard 5 Euro per extra kg fee in most European airports. The staff at Bratislava tried to charge 9 Euros per extra kg. Be warned.

My final annoyance is Bratislava's overpriced and inefficient internet cafes. In some internet cafes, one cannot surf the net without being gassed by foul cigarette smoke and being frustrated with noisy kids playing Warcraft and Counterstrike. The staff in many cafes don't want to help you - the just want to take your money and get pissed. What's most annoying, the computers are often old beige boxes that still run on Windows 98 that run at snail's pace.
Next week: Restaurant Service.

Next Apache Second-hand bookshop: Jewel in the town

One of most vibrant cafe/bookstores in Bratislava is the Next Apache bookstore on Panenska Street. It was set up by a Canadian in 2004 who came here and fell in love with the city. Located in a 400 year-old building, the bookstore is a haven for foreigners and locals alike who want to chill out in nice surroundings.
One can sit here for hours, play chess, read English books and magazines and drink real tea on the cafe's comfy sofas. Alongside old Stephen King paperbacks, there are many old books of Bratislava's glory days before capitalism reshaped the city with graffiti and billboards with women wearing next to nothing to advertise perfume. What's more, Next Apache has live music and exhibitions at weekends.
Link

Next Apache Bookstore